Remembering the Emergency in Penang

Remembering the Emergency in Penang ALAN TEH LEAM SENG  ALAN TEH LEAM SENG revisits the haunts of British Commonwealth servicemen in Penang in the 1950s and finds that the island has retained its old world charm

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The funicular train crosses the viaduct on its way up Penang Hill. The train service has been halted for upgrading work Piccadilly Hotel in Leith Street was popular with British servicemenServicemen in Kuala Lumpur used to take the train at the central Railway Station to go to Penang

Servicemen in Kuala Lumpur used to take the train at the central Railway Station to go to Penang

IF only the British administrators had known back in the early days of the insurrection that the communists were already staring defeat in the face, then the Emergency, as we all call it, could have been brought to an early end. 

Unfortunately, what followed was a “fatal pause”, a phrase coined by Noel Barber in his book The War Of The Running Dogs, where the British, for reasons known only to them, inadvertently gave Chin Peng sufficient time to regroup and reorganise his army. 

This crucial period was said to have happened exactly a month after Emergency was declared on June 16, 1948. At that time, Chin Peng’s brilliant military commander, Lau Yew, was shot dead by a police squad commanded by Captain William “Two-Gun” Stafford just as he was about to launch an attack on Kajang village.

The information about the communist vulnerability came too little too late and the Emergency dragged on for 12 long, hard fought years that caused much pain and hardship, and countless security force and civilian deaths. It was not until more than a decade later, on July 31, 1960, that the Malayan Emergency was officially declared over. 

July 31 this year has come and gone, but for those who lived through the Emergency, it’s a date that’s hard to forget.

Time For A Break

At the height of the insurrection, between 1948 and 1953, a large number of troops and support personnel poured into Malaya from all over the British Commonwealth to help rein in the communists. 

Many of these servicemen took the opportunity to visit interesting tourist spots in Malaya during their time off, especially after 1955 when it was evident that the communists were on the run and the government had gained the upper hand.

A popular rest and relaxation destination is in “up country” — Penang island. While many prefer to drive their own (or rented) Austins and Vauxhalls on the scenic trunk road all the way from Kuala Lumpur, others opted for the convenience of the Malayan Railway sleeping berths to transport them overnight to the ferry terminal at Butterworth. Penang Bridge was only built in 1985 so everyone in the 1950s had to take the ferry to the island.

Back then, except for the Eastern & Oriental Hotel, luxury hotels were few and far between on the island. However, at least two places catered almost exclusively to British Commonwealth servicemen. 

Those who preferred to spend their time in town stayed at Piccadilly Hotel in Leith Street while others who want to enjoy the beach in Tanjung Bungah would book a room at Sandycroft. The latter is an exclusive Naafi (Navy, Army and Air Force Institutes) Leave Centre which catered to the British servicemen.

Green Sanctuaries 

Not surprisingly, the tourist spots then are still popular today. These places provided a much welcomed respite for the servicemen seeking to, at the very least, temporarily shift their focus from the ravages of “war” to some sort of normalcy in life. 

People go to Penang Botanic Gardens to enjoy the lush greenery and tranquil setting. It’s also called Waterfall Gardens, due to the presence of a cascading waterfall. It is still a pleasure today to walk around this place which is said to be the first botanic garden in the country, while seeking out the elusive local wildlife such as squirrels, butterflies and monkeys and the large variety of rare plant species.

Penang Hill is another place to head for to experience the island’s montane flora and fauna while enjoying the cool weather. The easiest way up is to take the funicular railway which connects Air Itam to the top of the hill. The train service is currently discontinued for upgrading work but is expected to be up and running again next year.

Other Popular Spots 

Sprawling Air Itam today is vastly different from the haphazard rows of attap roofed houses so commonly found in Malayan towns in the 1950s. Today, both local and foreign tourists go to Air Itam to visit the famous Kek Lok Si Temple, home to the largest Buddhist temple in Southeast Asia.

While there, many stop to enjoy a bowl or two of the renowned Air Itam asam laksa. Then there are numerous quaint little shops that, over the years, have become a popular haunt for tourists and souvenir hunters. 

Another good place for shopping is downtown Penang Road. More than half a century ago, this place was already the shopping centre for locals and tourists alike. The only thing missing then was the chaos of today’s traffic jams. 

In those days, pedestrians only had to contend with trishaw riders and cyclists as motor vehicles were considered a luxury, owned only by the well heeled and high ranking government officers. As such, it must have been a breeze for shoppers who could virtually waltz from shop to shop, bargaining to their hearts’ content and buying only when the price is right.

The best place to shop in Penang Road must be the century-old Chowrastra Market, located opposite the Central Police Station. In the late 19th Century, this bustling market place consisted of only a single-storey structure housing mainly stalls operated by immigrants from the Indian subcontinent. 

Although Chowrastra Market has seen many facelifts through the years, it still remains popular with tourists today who come to buy nutmeg, preserved fruit, dried fish, snacks and even locally made ointments said to cure a variety of ailments.

One popular eating place in Penang Road that’s still in business today is Kek Seng Coffeeshop. Its signature ais kacang — shaved ice with red beans, creamed corn and homemade jelly — is a must-try. Just like in the past, it remains a popular stop for hungry shoppers to rest their weary feet and tuck into a variety of local hawker fare such as char kway teow, satay and laksa. 

Snakes And Vipers

The unique snake temple in Bayan Lepas was another popular tourist spot frequented by British servicemen who were fascinated by the large number of pit vipers there. It is said that the 150-year-old temple was built by a monk who used to give shelter to snakes in the jungle. According to the locals, snakes emerged from the nearby jungle and occupied the temple as soon as construction was completed in 1850.

Today, devotees come from as far away as Hong Kong, Indonesia, Singapore and Taiwan to offer prayers. 

Walk Back In Time

The Penang we know today has managed to retain much of its old world charm. Take a stroll along the historic enclave of George Town and take a peek into shops that have virtually remained the same for more than half a century, reminding us how life was during the Malayan Emergency which was said to have claimed the lives of nearly 2,000 civilian and 1,800 security personnel. On the other side, statistics revealed that more than 6,000 communists died. 

Our first Prime Minister, the late Tunku Abdul Rahman, signed the proclamation that repealed the Emergency Regulations Ordinance which became effective on July 31, 1960. 

A victory parade, celebrated by multicultural Malayans from all walks of life, was held in front of Sultan Abdul Samad Building in Kuala Lumpur.

Please read the article by the title of "Remembering the Emergency in Penang",
at http://travel.nst.com.my/Current_News/TravelTimes/article/TravellerTales/20100804175359/Article/